Walu Beach, Fiji - Days 65-70

Crystal clear blue water, palm trees, white beaches, hammocks and coral reefs - what more could you possibly ask for? An upgrade to a private villa maybe? We got all of the above when we arrived at Walu Beach and an experience to last us a life time. The "Mana Flyer"(not the most seaworthy looking vessel) picked us and a few others up at the backpackers on the beach - 55minutes later , after meandering through various reefs and islands, we arrived at Malolo Island. We had initially planned to hop on to another island 2 days later but decided very early on that this was the perfect place for us to chill out. The photo's really don't to this place any justice and if you're ever looking for a place to unwind - then this is definitely it. We also made some new friends - Steve, Stef and their 2 sons are SAFFA's living in Auckland who happen to be on the same boat transfer as us. We've been catching up with them and at least had someone to mourn with when the bokke got beaten on Saturday night.

John Thornton - this next piece is for you.

Prior to the rugby Kim and I joined the locals in a Kava ceremony as part of the evening entertainment. We'd heard all about it from John, who we met camping a few weeks earlier in Southern California. Will explain the basics quickly: Everyone gets together and sits Indian style on a woven mat. A kava chief (Steve, in this case) is elected and he is basically in charge of drinking the first cup of Kava (each round). Next they elect a “Body Guard”. The bodyguard’s job is to keep the drinks flowing. He/she determines when it is time for another round and then lastly there is the “driver” this is the guy who actually makes the Kava. Kava is created in a large wood bowl and served in coconut bowls. When being served you have two options; high tide - full bowl, or low tide - half bowl). I opted for the high tide all night. So the driver passes you your drink, and before you take it you clap (a deep “cupped” clap) and say BULA. Then you drink the Kava, pass the bowl back and then clap three more times. Then they go around and serve everyone else. It tastes like it looks - muddy water. Right from the get-go you will experience a numbing/tingly feeling in your tongue. But that was it for me…I drank and drank kava for hours but never got drunk. There is anywhere between 5 to 20 minutes before rounds and the atmosphere is really chilled, we moved the mat to the restaurant to watch the Bok game as the Fiji boys were rooting for Aus for some strange reason. Kava ceremonies can last for hours and hours and I hear from the locals that the this one ended at 6am the next morning! - long after we had gone to bed!

John, no hallucinations for me (after drinking high tide all night) but have to say that my body temp went through the roof a couple of times in the evening. This ceremony and mixing with the locals has been the highlight for me so far - the vibe was one of togetherness and chilled interaction that seems to go missing when you have 10 beers in you.



The next few days were spent exploring the coral reefs with a snorkel and Hobbie. This was a 1st for both Kim and I and was an incredibly cool experience - Bit scary at first, as you float about the edge of the reef that drops suddenly into the depths below you but once you get immersed in the multicoloured wildlife around nothing seems to matter anymore.

We were both sad to leave and were very touched by the locals who all made a point of coming down to the pier to say goodbye and wish us well. The Fijian people do things on "figi time" and "Fiji rules" - life just simply moves on at a leisurely pace and everyone seems to be mates with everyone else. They are incredibly friendly people and make a point of remembering your 1st name from the offset. Happy to speak to you about anything any time and nothing ever seems to worry them.I envy these people, there is NO RAT RACE HERE.

Vinaka to all those who made our stay at Walu Beach so memorable - Kimmy and I are already missing you.

More photo's of Fiji can be found on http://gallery.me.com/petekowalski/100073